Vista Barber Shop

 If it's your first holiday in Havana, head straight for the magnificently restored Old Havana (La Habana Vieja). Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, much of the area has been lovingly returned to its former grandeur. It's a colonial marvel, a riot of color and full of atmosphere, its quirky blend of architectural styles endlessly fascinating.

The area is a treasure to stroll around, and, along with Vedado, is the liveliest part of the city by day. It boasts four gorgeous 16th-century plazas. Check out Sleepy Plaza Vieja (right). There's a wealth of museums and galleries in the area, and many  Vista barber shop  of Havana's most impressive sights.

An impressive crafts market, Fria de la Artesana, just behind Iglesia de Paula on Calle San Pedro, is not to be missed. It sells every Cuban craft imaginable and is equipped with a CADECA, fruit juice vendors, kiosks, and a breezy seating area where you can relax with a drink and enjoy a view of the port (note, however, that it closes on Mondays).

Wander off the main drag, Calle Obispo, and you'll see an altogether different side of the Old Town: a well-established residential area that's home to an estimated 70,000 people. Take a coffee break at Caf El Escorial on Plaza Vieja. Alternatively, avoid the tourists and head to La Barrita, in the impressive art deco Bacardi building on Avenida de los Misiones. On Parque Central, the busy main square, watch the world go by from the veranda at the Hotel Inglaterra. Pop into the little caf at Hotel Telgrafo, a quiet escape with a cascade fountain trickling over a colorful mosaic. Or enjoy one of Havana's best mojitos at the NH Hotel. For culture, check out the Museo de Bellas Artes, Havana's excellent inte wonderful national art museum, just off Parque Central and just yards from Calle Obispo. Pop in to visit the room in the Hotel Ambos Mundos where Ernest Hemingway wrote some of his world-famous works of literature while standing up at his writing table.

Pay a visit to the colorful, offbeat Arte Corte, a barber shop that doubles as a museum-cum-art gallery. It features a lovely assortment of antiques, and some intriguing paintings by Cuban artists, including several by the owner, Pepito. Calle Aguiar #10, between Pena Pobre and Avenida de las Misiones.

If all the wandering around ignites your appetite, currently the best restaurant in the area for lunch is Caf del Oriente. It is a pleasant, well-air-conditioned oasis with a swanky interior, and service to match. Calle Oficios #112, corner of calle Amargura. Tel. 860 6686.

Havana's weather-beaten 8-km long seafront promenade is by far the city's best-loved hangout. Overlooking the expanse of water separating Cuba from Florida, the famous stretch is a place for dreamers, lovers and friends. It is the spiritual heart of the city and the nerve center of its social life, a round-the-clock phenomenon. Most nights it is thronged with people taking the balmy sea air; during the day it's a place for pause. One of the best views of the Malecn is from the elegant terrace garden at the Hotel Nacional.

If you fancy an impressive panoramic vista, check out La Torre. The view, from the 33rd floor of the tallest residential building in Havana, is breathtaking. What makes it so special is that you can walk right around the building, from the bar through the restaurant, and enjoy a 360-degree view of the bay and the city. Edificio FOCSA, calle 17, corner of calle M, Vedado. Tel. 832 2451.

The neighborhood itself, Vedado, is perhaps Havana's most fascinating. No holiday in Havana would be complete without visiting it. It is funky, diverse, and alternative. You could easily miss out on the charms of its most vibrant avenue, Avenida 23, aka La Rampa if you only see the rather bleak lower end that stretches from the Malecn to the picturesque Yara cinema. Perched on the city's most cosmopolitan junction, the Yara is a Havana cultural institution.